a laurel highlands day guide
tucked outside of the sprawling concrete jungle that is pittsburgh lies a transformative oasis in the woods known as the laurel highlands. here, history, world class outdoor recreation and stunning architecture paint a scene nearly a wonderful as the wilderness that surrounds you.
start the day grabbing breakfast at fuel coffee works in farmington. this car garage turned coffee shop still has all the automobile memorabilia you can imagine with license plates and highway signage covering the walls. menu items include breakfast sandwiches, fresh baked pastries and a coffee list curated to make even a starbucks barista jealous. the cafe is open 7 days a week, 7am - 3pm.
about 10 minutes up the road from farmington is a gem of a town called ohiopyle, a popular whitewater rafting location. before stopping however, travel north towards fallingwater, a beautifully created home by frank lloyd wright. wright is considered to be one of the greatest american architects of all time and his work is a testament to that. born in 1867, wright spent his early life traveling around the country with his preacher parents — a time that’s attributed to his unique architectural style, known as organic architecture. wright viewed nature as a higher power (he’s been quoted saying, “i believe in God, only i spell it nature.”) and made sure each of his homes showed that appreciation. his designs feature clean, horizontal lines to draw the eyes towards the outdoors and massive windows to let in all the natural light.
fallingwater is particularly spectacular — its cantilevered design positions the house over a waterfall and features direct access to the stream below. designed in 1935, this 5,300 square foot home was built for pittsburgh’s kaufmann family, owners of kaufmann’s department stores. the unique thing about this wright property (of the 1,100 buildings he designed) is that its the only house “open to the public with its furnishings, artwork, and setting intact.” inside you’ll find his signature cherokee red throughout and many ways to enjoy nature including windows with invisible corners to not obstruct the view. he truly thought of everything. after your tour ends, be sure to walk to the overlook for a perfect photo-op of the house from afar.
fallingwater is open 8am - 4pm mondays - sundays (and is closed on wednesdays). advance reservations are recommended; tours start at $32 and last approximately 1 - 1.5 hours. book your tour here!
make your way back to ohiopyle for lunch at falls city restaurant and pub, a local watering hole for delicious burgers & sandwiches. though a bit chilly in march, the outdoor seating would be perfect in the summer. don’t leave without ordering the gouda mac & cheese bites!! they pair well with the extensive beer selection.
round out your tour of frank lloyd wright properties by visiting kentuck knob next. this home, completed in 1956, was built for the hagan family who started hagan ice cream (you can even sample some at the visitor center!) in typical wright fashion, this home features native sandstone & wood accents with geometrical patterns throughout. the back porch is truly stunning and very private. today, the home is privately owned by lord peter palumbo so no indoor photography is allowed unfortunately. tours are available for $28 and hours vary based on the season. the property also features different sculptures and works of art — even a piece of the berlin wall, so a walk on the grounds is definitely a must. i have to say, i’m more fond of fallingwater but you can’t pass up kentuck knob.
the indoor tours must have you craving the outdoors by now. luckily ohiopyle is an adventurer’s paradise with whitewater rafting, hiking/biking trails, ziplining and rock climbing opportunities. cucumber falls is a great roadside stop for really incredible waterfall views. a series of steps take you down to the falls where you can get up close & personal with this natural wonder.
ohiopyle falls is also a must and very accessible via the visitors center right in town. the falls cascade down the youghiogheny river (say that three times fast) and overlooks provide an easy vantage point. a short walk over the ohiopyle high bridge will take you on the ferncliff trail, a meandering trail that follows alongside the river. the great allegheny passage, a 150-mile non-motorized path, is nearby and connects to other small towns like confluence, rockwood and meyersdale.
after the day’s exploration, rest at a local airbnb, cabin or resort. this airbnb is a great home base that’s directly in town and right next door to falls city restaurant. aside from the airbnbs, boutique hotels and resorts dot the countryside. the summit in is a historic hotel from 1907 that is one of the last remaining “grand porch” hotels in the country. as you can imagine, a giant porch graces the front of this inn giving way to gorgeous views of pennsylvania (and on a clear day, even pittsburgh some 80 odd miles away). the inn closes in the winter due to bad weather / roads so you’ll have to book a stay in the summer! for a luxury stay with 5-star dining, a rejuvenating spa and a pete dye designed golf course, try nemacolin woodland’s resort in farmington.
have you been to the laurel highlands before? where’s your favorite spot?